Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity

Caroline Lloyd*, Friedemann Schaber

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to Book/ReportConference Contribution

Abstract

This paper discusses, through the vehicle of case studies, how Fashion and Design brands have been instrumental in regenerating commerce in the United Kingdom (UK) regarding luxury goods, leathercraft and footwear. A particular attention is paid to the current research surrounding the ‘commodification of heritage’ exemplified by the fashion house Burberry, which demonstrates Britishness as an intangible element of cultural heritage. In-depth findings illustrated cover V&A Archives, Burberry’s celebrity endorsement and the royal appointment system. To compare the findings from this top profitable company, the centuries old footwear brands of the Northampton area in the English Midlands that have preserved the making of gentleman’s shoes, are also exemplified. It has been noted that some manufacturers have been taken over by international houses such as Hermès and Prada to essentially safeguard the craftmanship that is “Made in Britain”. Both exemplars will be related to the UK Government funded initiatives and by Walpole, British Fashion Council, Made in Britain Initiative, London Craft Fair, as well as other benevolent bodies, namely Leathersellers and Cordwainers Guilds. Live fashion events and halo projects sponsored by industry are also the focal point for certain aspects of the intangible cultural heritage industry. Policy and reports, such as The State of Fashion [1], will inform the debate. In conclusion, it is argued that the exclusive club of luxury labels with ‘intangible cultural heritage’ is at the cross-roads in retailing and frequently referenced to define notions of Britishness, which will be the focus of discussion.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationFashion Communication in the Digital Age
Subtitle of host publicationFACTUM 19 Fashion Communication Conference, Ascona, Switzerland, July 21-26, 2019
EditorsNadzeya Kalbaska, Teresa Sádaba, Francesca Cominelli, Lorenzo Cantoni
Place of PublicationZurich
PublisherSpringer International
EditionFactum2019
ISBN (Electronic)978-3-030-15436-3
ISBN (Print)978-3-030-15436-3, 978-3-030-15436-3, 978-3-030-15435-6
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 10 Jul 2019

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cultural heritage
authenticity
luxury
guild
industry
VIP
club
commerce
event

Keywords

  • Authenticity
  • Design
  • Heritage
  • Fashion
  • Promotion and Communication
  • Footwear

Cite this

Lloyd, C., & Schaber, F. (2019). Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity. In N. Kalbaska, T. Sádaba, F. Cominelli, & L. Cantoni (Eds.), Fashion Communication in the Digital Age: FACTUM 19 Fashion Communication Conference, Ascona, Switzerland, July 21-26, 2019 (Factum2019 ed.). Zurich: Springer International. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3
Lloyd, Caroline ; Schaber, Friedemann. / Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity. Fashion Communication in the Digital Age: FACTUM 19 Fashion Communication Conference, Ascona, Switzerland, July 21-26, 2019. editor / Nadzeya Kalbaska ; Teresa Sádaba ; Francesca Cominelli ; Lorenzo Cantoni. Factum2019. ed. Zurich : Springer International, 2019.
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abstract = "This paper discusses, through the vehicle of case studies, how Fashion and Design brands have been instrumental in regenerating commerce in the United Kingdom (UK) regarding luxury goods, leathercraft and footwear. A particular attention is paid to the current research surrounding the ‘commodification of heritage’ exemplified by the fashion house Burberry, which demonstrates Britishness as an intangible element of cultural heritage. In-depth findings illustrated cover V&A Archives, Burberry’s celebrity endorsement and the royal appointment system. To compare the findings from this top profitable company, the centuries old footwear brands of the Northampton area in the English Midlands that have preserved the making of gentleman’s shoes, are also exemplified. It has been noted that some manufacturers have been taken over by international houses such as Herm{\`e}s and Prada to essentially safeguard the craftmanship that is “Made in Britain”. Both exemplars will be related to the UK Government funded initiatives and by Walpole, British Fashion Council, Made in Britain Initiative, London Craft Fair, as well as other benevolent bodies, namely Leathersellers and Cordwainers Guilds. Live fashion events and halo projects sponsored by industry are also the focal point for certain aspects of the intangible cultural heritage industry. Policy and reports, such as The State of Fashion [1], will inform the debate. In conclusion, it is argued that the exclusive club of luxury labels with ‘intangible cultural heritage’ is at the cross-roads in retailing and frequently referenced to define notions of Britishness, which will be the focus of discussion.",
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author = "Caroline Lloyd and Friedemann Schaber",
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Lloyd, C & Schaber, F 2019, Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity. in N Kalbaska, T Sádaba, F Cominelli & L Cantoni (eds), Fashion Communication in the Digital Age: FACTUM 19 Fashion Communication Conference, Ascona, Switzerland, July 21-26, 2019. Factum2019 edn, Springer International, Zurich. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3

Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity. / Lloyd, Caroline; Schaber, Friedemann.

Fashion Communication in the Digital Age: FACTUM 19 Fashion Communication Conference, Ascona, Switzerland, July 21-26, 2019. ed. / Nadzeya Kalbaska; Teresa Sádaba; Francesca Cominelli; Lorenzo Cantoni. Factum2019. ed. Zurich : Springer International, 2019.

Research output: Contribution to Book/ReportConference Contribution

TY - GEN

T1 - Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity

AU - Lloyd, Caroline

AU - Schaber, Friedemann

PY - 2019/7/10

Y1 - 2019/7/10

N2 - This paper discusses, through the vehicle of case studies, how Fashion and Design brands have been instrumental in regenerating commerce in the United Kingdom (UK) regarding luxury goods, leathercraft and footwear. A particular attention is paid to the current research surrounding the ‘commodification of heritage’ exemplified by the fashion house Burberry, which demonstrates Britishness as an intangible element of cultural heritage. In-depth findings illustrated cover V&A Archives, Burberry’s celebrity endorsement and the royal appointment system. To compare the findings from this top profitable company, the centuries old footwear brands of the Northampton area in the English Midlands that have preserved the making of gentleman’s shoes, are also exemplified. It has been noted that some manufacturers have been taken over by international houses such as Hermès and Prada to essentially safeguard the craftmanship that is “Made in Britain”. Both exemplars will be related to the UK Government funded initiatives and by Walpole, British Fashion Council, Made in Britain Initiative, London Craft Fair, as well as other benevolent bodies, namely Leathersellers and Cordwainers Guilds. Live fashion events and halo projects sponsored by industry are also the focal point for certain aspects of the intangible cultural heritage industry. Policy and reports, such as The State of Fashion [1], will inform the debate. In conclusion, it is argued that the exclusive club of luxury labels with ‘intangible cultural heritage’ is at the cross-roads in retailing and frequently referenced to define notions of Britishness, which will be the focus of discussion.

AB - This paper discusses, through the vehicle of case studies, how Fashion and Design brands have been instrumental in regenerating commerce in the United Kingdom (UK) regarding luxury goods, leathercraft and footwear. A particular attention is paid to the current research surrounding the ‘commodification of heritage’ exemplified by the fashion house Burberry, which demonstrates Britishness as an intangible element of cultural heritage. In-depth findings illustrated cover V&A Archives, Burberry’s celebrity endorsement and the royal appointment system. To compare the findings from this top profitable company, the centuries old footwear brands of the Northampton area in the English Midlands that have preserved the making of gentleman’s shoes, are also exemplified. It has been noted that some manufacturers have been taken over by international houses such as Hermès and Prada to essentially safeguard the craftmanship that is “Made in Britain”. Both exemplars will be related to the UK Government funded initiatives and by Walpole, British Fashion Council, Made in Britain Initiative, London Craft Fair, as well as other benevolent bodies, namely Leathersellers and Cordwainers Guilds. Live fashion events and halo projects sponsored by industry are also the focal point for certain aspects of the intangible cultural heritage industry. Policy and reports, such as The State of Fashion [1], will inform the debate. In conclusion, it is argued that the exclusive club of luxury labels with ‘intangible cultural heritage’ is at the cross-roads in retailing and frequently referenced to define notions of Britishness, which will be the focus of discussion.

KW - Authenticity

KW - Design

KW - Heritage

KW - Fashion

KW - Promotion and Communication

KW - Footwear

UR - http://www.mendeley.com/research/fashion-communication-digital-age

U2 - 10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3

DO - 10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3

M3 - Conference Contribution

SN - 978-3-030-15436-3

SN - 978-3-030-15436-3

SN - 978-3-030-15435-6

BT - Fashion Communication in the Digital Age

A2 - Kalbaska, Nadzeya

A2 - Sádaba, Teresa

A2 - Cominelli, Francesca

A2 - Cantoni, Lorenzo

PB - Springer International

CY - Zurich

ER -

Lloyd C, Schaber F. Britishness: Heritage, Tradition and Authenticity. In Kalbaska N, Sádaba T, Cominelli F, Cantoni L, editors, Fashion Communication in the Digital Age: FACTUM 19 Fashion Communication Conference, Ascona, Switzerland, July 21-26, 2019. Factum2019 ed. Zurich: Springer International. 2019 https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15436-3